1. Surgeon
2. Airline pilot
3. Photojournalist
4. Advertising Account Executive
5. Real Estate Agents.
The least stressful were:
- Actuary
- Dietitian
- Computer System Analyst
- Statistician
- Astronomer
Barbara Whisenant is a member of: The National Association of Realtors; California Association of Realtors; North San Diego Association of Realtors, SRES (Senior Real Estate Specialist), GRI (Graduate Realtor Institute) SFR (Short Sales and Foreclosure Resource,(CHS) Certified CHS HAFA Specialist, 5 Star Real Estate Agent 2010 - 2016 and featured in San Diego Magazine. Barbara Whisenant BRE# 01357594
1. A "first-time home buyer" is someone who hasn't owned a principal residence for three years before buying a house. (The date of purchase is considered the day that the title is transferred.) That means if you've owned a vacation home--but not a principal residence--within the past three years, you would still qualify for the credit.
2. 2009 buyers only: Only those who purchase a home on or after January 1 and before December 1, 2009 are eligible for the credit. Anyone who bought a home last year won't be able to take advantage of it.
3. Income limits: The tax credit is subject to income limitations. Single buyers need a modified adjusted gross income of $75,000 or less to qualify for the full credit, that's $150,000 for married couples. Those earning more than these thresholds may be eligible for reduced credits.
On March 4, 2009, guidelines were released under President Barack Obama's Making Home Affordable initiative, which is designed to help up to 9 million homeowners stay in their homes through refinanced mortgages or loan modifications.
To qualify, you must:
Most of the things fees, appraisals, title insurance that went along with an original mortgage hold true for a refi, which means it can cost a fair amount to change loan types. How quickly you recoup the cost depends partially on how long you are going to keep the mortgage. If you are going to be in your home long enough to recover the costs, and get some benefit from lower interest payments over the life of the loan, then it's a no-brainer. But balancing the cost with the benefits of a new mortgage is critical. Use an online calculator to figure it out.
Be sure to remember that closing costs include another appraisal (no matter how recently you've had one), a new credit report, underwriting fees, title insurance, escrow fee, recording fees, and perhaps other small fees. These costs typically range from $1500-$2000. (Some lenders are willing to waive the closing costs for a higher interest rate loan.)
You can pay points on a refinance loan, same as on an original mortgage, but unlike with the original mortgage, the points are tax deductible over the entire term of the loan rather than just in the first year. Points make sense when rates are on the upswing and you want to get in on the lowest possible rate.
But, except in some cases, points are a fact of life: if you are paying a 1-point fee on a $100,000 refi, you can add $1000 to your closing costs.
You also need to look at your current mortgage to see if there are pre-payment penalties. And what happens to your old mortgage? It's paid off by the new loan, as are any other liens; at the end of the refinance process, ideally you should have only one loan. (If you have more than one mortgage, however, it's possible to refinance just one of the loans if the lender agrees.)
The easy way to figure out if refinancing makes sense is to figure out how long it will take you to pay off the closing costs with the savings you realize with lower monthly payments. If it is longer than the time you plan to stay in the house, then refinancing might be a good option. You have fewer tax breaks with a lower-rate refi, so be sure to ask your lender for a refinance break-even table that will take that into account.
For more information see original post at http://www.zillow.com/refinance
Barbara Whisenant